Starting Month 5

(from Viernes, 7/2/10)

Here we are, going on month 5 in the Dominican Republic! Much has happened since those first few days in country. Arriving here seems like it was just yesterday, and yet it’s a fuzzy memory at the same time. Without a doubt - time here has really flown by quickly and things just seems to keep getting better and better as it does so. Had I known last March as I freaked out - shoving my belongings into my suitcases, weeding out clothes that wouldn’t fit inside - that there was little reason to worry and that these first months would all work out just fine ...well actually let’s be honest, I probably still would have stressed out. But, the more I drag my over-packed, polka-dot luggage around this country, the more relaxed I am here.

Which brings me to where I am now - still surprised at times of course, but overall pretty at ease here in Mao. I'm settled in here, and still getting to know those who live around me. A few neighbors here bake sometimes, and whenever they do, they always go out of their way to share with me. It’s actually really sweet. A group of kids will come to the house, then altogether present a small dish of whatever they’ve made and then stand there waiting for me to eat it. I wanted to bake something in return, and figured it wouldn’t be too difficult to feign talent in the kitchen for just one afternoon. However, this intention to bake crumbled quickly - here, ovens are mostly used as storage for pots and pans, not preparing food. I’m assuming that they just use too much energy and money - plus, you can’t cook rice and beans in an oven. (My dona uses it to cook once a year at Christmas). And so, with the baking plans out, I flexed my culinary muscles and made chocolate rice krispy treats. I brought around little trays to my neighbors, and then from the porch, handed out squares to kids who came by later for more. I can’t be sure, because I can never be sure of anything here, but I think people liked them. They wanted the recipe, too. (Turns out, “marshmallow” is the same in both languages, who knew). But I probably can’t do something like this again for a while. I spent 500 pesos making rice krispy treats, for goodness sake. That’s about $15, which can go a long way here. To put it in perspective, I could have gone on a four hour trip to the capital and back on that kind of money. But actually, come to think of it, isn’t $15 too much even by US standards to be spending on cereal, marshmallows and chocolate? Haha, probably did something wrong there. Anyway, I don’t think making sweets in bulk is factored into the Peace Corps volunteer budget, soo sorry, my wonderful neighbors. :-)

And the neighbors really are great to me - maybe even too much so, if that’s possible. So this morning while walking back to my campo from town (a good 35 minutes if you do it right) I figured it would be a good opportunity to talk to family alla. (“alla” means “over there,” usually always to reference the US. People will ask a question about “alla” such as “When are you going alla?” or “Do you eat this alla?” and before I smartened up I’d respond, “Where’s alla? ...Oh, you mean in the US?” “Si claro, en los Estados Unidos!”). Back to the story - I’m walking, up to the last 4 minutes or so of the trek, chatting with my mom, and then my neighbor pulls up in his car to offer me a bola. I tell him thanks but I’m going to walk, and he waves and leaves. Then soon after, my other neighbor zooms up on his moto and offers a ride, and I say thanks, but I’m just going to walk and can’t ride without a helmet, anyways. Just after he leaves, two more cars with neighbors from my campo stop and offer me bolas. I thank them and wave them on. Meanwhile the phone conversation has now shifted from “So, what are you doing this weekend?” to “Ok, what the heck is a ‘bola?’” I cut the call short when I see my neighbor speeding back in my direction with my yellow helmet under his arm. Wow, very persistent, and looks like I can’t say “no” to a free ride now. I’m getting a bola whether I want it or not, haha. Thanks, neighbor.

Other than spending time with neighbors, I’ve been keeping busy with the diagnostic, mostly compiling data at this point. Also, my co-worker has been giving me painting classes and last week, I finished the first one. ...Then, later that day, I got lost while walking home (could have used all those offers for bolas that day!) and accidentally smudged it. Here it is, nonetheless:

Also, I’ve been looking at houses for August when I’ll move out on my own. I can either move to an apartment or small house more in town, or look for something in my campo. If I moved outside the campo, I’d be a lot closer to basically everything that makes life easier - stores, supermarkets, internet, you name it. Mao is pretty big, and everything wouldn’t be such a hike to get to. But, at the same time, there are a lot of reasons to stay in the campo. I already know everyone and feel safe, it’s really close to my school, we always have luz (electricity) and running water (ironically, that’s not always the case in the nicer neighborhoods in town), and my neighborhood is the most scenic part of Mao, in my opinion anyway. (And let’s just face it: I’d miss all the animals here!) There’re a couple empty houses in my campo, and even a few newly constructed houses, too. Except these new ones don’t look anything like the neighboring, wood slat, concrete block, tin roof houses here at all. I was curious and went in to check out one of the brand-new houses just to see what it was like and get some perspective on what to look for. It had three bedrooms, two living rooms, kitchen, even a laundry room, electricity, running water, tiled floors throughout - just like a house in the US, basically. All this right next door to houses with outdoor latrines... seems out of place - where are all the lizards running on the walls? Anyway, I was told this place rents for $5,000 pesos (almost $150 USD) a month. Now there was a day when I would consider that amount to be nothing, but now, paying that is waaay out of my price range. So continuing with the theme of rolling with whatever is tossed my way, I have no idea where I’ll be living next month. Knowing me, I probably won’t be happy until I’ve seen every available space, made a pro and con list, and determined the “perfect house” to live in. So, to start off that list, here’s one more pro to living in the campo:

Yes, that’s me on a horse for the first time ever. Here are a few more recent DR firsts off the top of my head:

• Rode on a motorcycle with four people.
• Became violently ill at inconvenient hours for seemingly no reason.
• Ate mondongo. (Didn’t know it at the time, but that’s cow intestines. Yes, people can find a way to eat that. No, I don’t plan on making that mistake again. Moral of this disgusting story: always, always ask what things are).
• And, got a haircut in the campo. (The fact that this even happened is a huge deal. For more than 8 years, I’ve gone to the same person (thank you, Michael!) for haircuts).

This weekend I’m heading to the dirty south (near Barahona on the map) to another PCV’s site on the beach to celebrate a birthday and America with a group of volunteers. Should be good.

***Happy Fourth of July, all!***

xo,

Emma